Baghdad Along the Tigris 2011

In February 2004, Saddam’s former city, Baghdad, was a decent place as most businesses were operating, people were elated because the tyrant had been toppled. Many stores and clubs stayed open throughout the night. The city was clean and the crime rate was low because freedom was at their door. Believe it or not, here was no fear of kidnapping or car bombs. That is because of the euphoric state the locals were in. America had toppled Saddam, they felt secure and free because America was in control. It was a functioning city with law, even without law enforcement because of American troops. The American military was Iraq’s glue.

Since those lofty moments in 2004, now considered the “good old days”, Baghdad along the Tigris River today is a mess at best and a sewer at worst. The Iraqis have elected their government since 2004. In the intervening years from 2005 to now, the various religious groups have fought one another while the Iraqi police try to learn on the job and stop the chaos. During this time, the infrastructure, like the roads are in very poor condition, with lots of garbage everywhere. Many streets are blocked with concrete walls. There are many checkpoints inside the city manned by soldiers and police, all ill-trained or prepared for potential threats as they seldom check cars or ask people for identification. One news reporter who kept track encountered more than 26 checkpoints and none of them stopped us to ask for identification. The soldiers and police at the checkpoints are ONLY there to get their salaries and make a living. They go through the motions of providing security. Give them some money, and they will let you through. There is no loyalty to Iraq, otherwise, they would ask each car at a checkpoint for ID. According to locals there, that since the government does not enforce the law, the soldiers do not want to ask for identification and hold people accountable because they fear reprisals on them and family. Makes complete sense with terrorists in their midst.

Political assassinations are inside jobs and when officials do not like each other they try to have each other killed. Now, that sounds like America’s wild west!

Traffic is the worse in Baghdad. Despite the fact that police are present in cars,or  on foot on busy intersections, and despite the fact the street lights do work to control traffic, nobody gives a hoot. Cars whiz right through red lights in front of a police car and the police do nothing. Woe to you if you are a pedestrian!  Watch out for the motorcycles!

Inside the Green Zone, which has always been the “safe” area where foreign embassies are located, it is no longer safe despite two Iraqi checkpoints and a U.S. Embassy checkpoint manned by Africans (not American troops). Inside the Green Zone, there are other checkpoints but cell phones, and all liquids and medicine are banned. The speed limit is five miles per hour because of very hard road bumps that could break a tank’s tread. The Green Zone was the hub for years when America was present, now, it is like a semi-ghost town or a camp. There is not one store in this area.

Electricity remains the core problem for the millions living there. During the hot summer, there are fewer than ten hours of electricity per day. Temps easily average in the high 90′s and more. Prime Minister Nouri al-Maliki promised in February to improve services, yet, all of the basic needs of electricity and water and sewage services are lacking.

The rift between the Sunnis and Shiites remains as bad as ever. The Sunni districts of Baghdad have been surrounded by concrete walls (like those found in Israel), and there are only one or two gates to get in and out. The Shiites control 90% of everything from government to most stores for shoppers.

Corruption is Iraq’s mantra. When you go to any government ministry, nothing is done for you unless you pay them. An Iraqi passport will cost you $1500. The bribes are not conducted in open but in the men’s restroom or toilet stalls.

So, this is what America got for billions of dollars and thousands of US lives. A democracy that is so fragile, its life and death is always one step away.